The pittosporum (or pittosphorus), scientific name Pittosporum tobirais a plant belonging to the family of Pittosporaceae. It is a species native to the Far East, which is cultivated for its ornamental beauty and its rusticity. The plant is able to adapt, through pruning, to different forms of farming, and in fact it is cultivated as a sapling (as a single specimen), as a bush and as a hedge.

So let’s see the botanical characteristics of pittosporum and everything you need to know to grow it correctly.

Origin of the name Pittosporum tobira

The name of the botanical genus Pittosporum derives from two words of ancient Greek: pitta= pitch e sporos= seed, which combined can be translated as “tarry seed”. The reference is to the gelatinous and sticky substance in which the seeds of the pittosporum are immersed. The name tobira on the other hand, it is a Japanese term which means “door tree”, due to the Japanese custom of hanging the branches of the plant on the doors, as a superstitious sign.

Description of the pittosporum

Pittosporum tobira
The pittosporum is an evergreen shrub that can take on different conformations, depending on the form of breeding chosen. The most beautiful are tree-like, with 1-2 main trunks, which even exceed 6 m in height. A tree with adequate space in the garden, grows with a broad crown, even 4 m in diameter, and rich in ramifications. The wood of the trunks is hard, with greyish bark.
But the pittosporum can also be raised in the shape of a hedge, favoring its shrubby nature, in this case we intervene more often with pruning.
Finally, the variety pittosporum tobira nanumor dwarf pittosporum, can be cultivated with a lower and more compact form, therefore bushy.

Leaves

Pittosphorus leaves
The leaves of the pittosporum are grouped at the top of the branches, with a spatulate shape with a wedge-shaped base, rounded apex, pubescent when young, hairless when adults. They have a leathery, almost leathery consistency, shiny and dark green in the upper page, pale and pale in the lower one. The young leaves are more tender and clear.
There are also varieties of pittosporum that bear leaves with creamy white variegations, in practice variegated pittosporum, very interesting to plant next to varieties with unique colors.

Flowers

Pittosporum flowers
Flowering is one of the characteristic features of pittosporum. It is abundant and spectacular when the plant has space and light, especially in tree forms. The flowers, pentamers, are grouped in subumbrelliform terminal panicles and carried by hairy pedicels. They have a gamosepalus calyx in the lower half, and a dialipetala corolla made up of whitish petals of 10-15 mm, which turn yellow when senescence occurs. The stamens are five, with the ovary surmounted by a short stylus bearing a stigma.
The flowering period is, depending on the climate, from April to July, with the maximum splendor in June. The flowers are very popular with bees and other pollinating insects, which obtain pollen and nectar from them. They are also intensely scented and their aroma is very reminiscent of citrus blossom. Among the odorous substances that make up the bouquet of pittosporum flowers we have: pinene, n-nonane, n-neridol, (E) -β-Ocimene, myrcene And n-undecane.

Fruits and seeds

Pittosphorus berries
The fruit of the pittosporum is a pyriform, greenish berry. At full maturity it opens thanks to the presence of 3 valves. Inside the berry the seeds are kept, bright red in color and immersed in a substance with a gelatinous and sugary consistency. Perhaps also for this reason, the seeds are very appetite for wild birds.

How to grow pittosporum

pittosporum in bloom
Pittosphorus is an easy plant to grow, as it is extremely resistant to both winter cold and summer heat. It is a perfect species for coastal areas, as it tolerates soil salinity and brackish winds. It is also possible to grow it in pots, but not for the need to protect it in the winter months. In any case, the latter type of cultivation is not recommended, as the pittosporum is very vigorous and produces abundant vegetation, forced into a vase, therefore, it can go into suffering.

Exposure

In general, pittosporum prefers full sun exposure, which favors abundant flowering. It can also be grown in partial shade, but will have a tendency to stretch, with a less luxuriant flower output.

Ground

Pittosphorus is well suited to different types of soil, except for those that are too compact and asphyxiated. It is therefore important that the soil is well drained. If the soil in your garden is too hard and clayey, you can make amends for sand or sand before transplanting perlite.
Positive for the plant is also a good background fertilization of the soil, to be done with mature manure, earthworm humus or home compost.

Irrigation

Regular irrigation of pittosporum is strictly necessary only in the first year after planting. When the plant has taken root, the wetting can be limited to rescue interventions in the arid seasons and lacking in rainfall. The plant is very resistant to drought, but less to excess water, so it is better to be thrifty.

Multiplication of pittosporum

The multiplication of pittosporum can take place in two ways, both quite simple and with a good chance of success. This is the cutting technique and seed cultivation.

From cuttings

The simplest reproduction technique for pittosporum is cutting. The best time to do it is early spring, when the pittosporum plant is in strong vegetative growth. A one-year-old sprig of semi-woody consistency, about 10-15 cm long, should be taken from the mother plant. The cutting is put to root in small jars filled with soil and perlite, a ideal mix for cuttings that is ready for sale.
The cutting should be placed in a shady place and the soil always kept well moist. You can keep the new plant in pot until the following autumn or spring, ideal times for transplanting into the ground.

From seed

Seeds
The best period for sowing pittosporum is instead the end of winter, and even in this case small pots are used. Sprout birth is slow, as is initial growth. However, even starting from the seed the plant can give great satisfaction.

Pitosphorus transplant

Regardless of whether you have chosen to start from cutting or seed, the best times to plant the young seedlings of Pittosporum tobira they are definitely autumn and early spring.

Transplant distances

The distances of transplanting in the garden depend on how you want to grow the plant. If the goal is to create a hedge, the seedlings can be planted at a distance of 1 m from each other, 50-70 cm for the dwarf variety and for bush breeding.
If, on the other hand, you want to grow a pittosporum tree, you need to leave room for the plant, which must have at least 4 m in diameter free around itself.

Pruning of pittosporum

The pittosporum resists pruning cuts very well, even the most careless ones. From the cutting points the plant emits new shoots, which grow quickly. The intensity of pruning also depends on the chosen training system. The interventions are done after flowering, therefore in early summer or in September, so as to allow the healing of the wounds and the emission of new shoots before winter. The globular posture of the foliage should be supported. In this case, the cuts are limited to the topping of the protruding branches. At the end of winter we intervene with a rimonda pruning, eliminating only the dry branches, so as to put little stress on the plant and guarantee abundant flowering.
In the breeding of the pittosporum with hedges the cuts are more incisive. The advice is to avoid the drastic ones and the square shapes, although the plant tolerates them very well. Excessive cuts affect flowering in the following season.

The management of parasites

The most dangerous parasites for the pittosporum are the mealybugs. There are several species that attack the plant, in particular: Icerya purchases (cottony cochineal of citrus fruits), Planococcus citri (citrus fruit cotonello), Ceroplastes rusci (fig cochineal), Saissetia oleae (cochineal half a grain of pepper). These parasites cause leaf decay and smear the plant’s vegetation. As secondary damage, they cause the appearance of honeydew first and then of fumaggine. To eliminate the cochineal it is advisable to intervene in autumn or at the end of winter using, usingwhite mineral oil (found here)then washing the vegetation with soft potassium soapwhich is easily found in specialized shops.
Another problematic parasite for the pittosporum are the aphids, which attack the leaves of the plant in spring, with damage similar to that of scale insects. To eliminate the aphids just use, also in this case, the soft potassium soap.

Toxicity

The pittosporum is to be considered a toxic plant, due to the abundant presence of triterpene saponins. During the ripening period of the seeds, children or pets should not be able to ingest the berries, which are aesthetically very attractive due to their beautiful red color.

Let's talk about "Pitosphorus (Pittosporum tobira). How to grow this garden plant" with our community!
Start a new Thread

Philip Owell

Professional blogger, here to bring you new and interesting content every time you visit our blog.